How to Fix Common Household Leaks and Drips

A dripping tap is easy to ignore until the sound starts to keep you awake or the water bill creeps up. The good news is that you can usually fix a leaky tap yourself in under an hour with a few basic tools. Many other household leaks, from a weeping pipe joint to a running toilet, also have simple fixes, provided you know what to look for.

This guide covers the most common leaks and drips, explains how to isolate water safely, and flags the situations where you should stop and call a qualified plumber instead.

First, Find the Stop Valve

Before you tackle any leak, know where to turn the water off. There are two levels of control.

• Isolation valves: small valves, usually with a slot for a screwdriver, on the pipes beneath sinks, basins and toilets. Turning one off cuts the water to that fitting only.
• Main stop valve: typically under the kitchen sink, in a utility room or near the front of the house. Turning it clockwise shuts off the supply to the whole property.

Test these valves now, while nothing is wrong. Stiff valves can be a problem in an emergency, and if yours does not turn smoothly, ask a plumber to replace it. If water is escaping fast and you cannot stop it, shut off the main supply and call an emergency plumber. If water is near electrics, turn off power at the consumer unit only if you can do it safely.

How to Fix a Leaky Tap

Taps drip for a few predictable reasons: a worn washer on older taps, a worn cartridge on newer ones, a damaged seat, or a loose component. Work out which type you have first.

Identify your tap

• Traditional pillar taps with separate hot and cold heads usually have a rubber washer at the base of the spindle.
• Mixer taps often use ceramic discs or cartridges.
• Quarter-turn taps use ceramic discs and turn only 90 degrees between off and on.
• Monobloc taps with a single lever use a cartridge.

Tools you will need

• Adjustable spanner
• Flathead and cross-head screwdrivers
• Replacement washers or cartridges (take the old part to the shop to match it)
• Cloth or masking tape to protect chrome
• Penetrating oil if parts are stuck
• Silicone grease for reassembly
• A small towel and a bowl

Step by step: replacing a washer on a traditional tap

1. Turn off the water at the isolation valve or main stop valve, then open the tap to drain residual water.
2. Plug the sink so small parts do not fall down the drain.
3. Remove the cover or decorative head. This may unscrew, or you may need to prise off a cap to reveal a screw.
4. Use the spanner to undo the headgear nut, protecting the finish with cloth.
5. Lift out the headgear. At the bottom you will see a washer held by a small nut or pressed on.
6. Replace the washer with a matching one. If the seat looks worn or pitted, a reseating tool or full tap replacement may be needed.
7. Smear a little silicone grease on the threads, reassemble in reverse order, then turn the water on slowly and check for drips.

Step by step: replacing a ceramic disc or cartridge

1. Isolate the water and open the tap.
2. Remove the handle by unscrewing the grub screw or small cap.
3. Undo the cover and the retaining nut.
4. Pull out the cartridge. Note the orientation and any lugs that guide it.
5. Fit an identical replacement. Cartridges vary in size and spline count, so buy the exact match.
6. Reassemble, turn the water on gently and test.

If the tap still drips, the body may be damaged. At that point, replacing the tap can be more sensible than repeating repairs.

Fixing a Leaking Pipe Joint

Small leaks at compression fittings under sinks can be as simple as a loose nut. Dry the fitting, place a piece of tissue underneath to see exactly where the drip occurs, and gently tighten the nut by a quarter turn with a spanner while holding the fitting steady. Do not overtighten, since that can crack the olive or the fitting.

If tightening fails:

1. Turn off the water and drain the pipe.
2. Undo the nut and inspect the olive (the small brass ring). If it is deformed, replace it.
3. Wrap PTFE tape around threaded joints where appropriate, though compression fittings seal on the olive and do not normally need it.
4. Reassemble and test.

For a leak from the pipe itself, such as a pinhole, a temporary repair clamp or putty-style repair tape can hold until a plumber can replace the section. Treat these as temporary, not as permanent solutions. Copper pipes that are corroded or lead pipes should be replaced professionally.

A Running or Leaking Toilet

Toilet leaks waste a surprising amount of water. Two checks are useful.

Silent running

If the cistern keeps refilling or you can hear water trickling, the fill valve or flush valve may not be sealing. Lift the lid and look: if water flows into the overflow pipe, the float or fill valve needs adjusting or replacing. If water is leaking from the cistern into the bowl, the flush valve seal may have perished.

To test, add a few drops of food colouring to the cistern. If the colour appears in the bowl within a short time without flushing, the flush valve is leaking.

Leaks around the base

Water pooling at the base can come from a worn pan collar, a loose connection or a cracked pan. Tighten connections gently first; if the floor is wet after tightening, call a plumber, as a failing seal can damage floors.

Signs of a Hidden Leak

Not all leaks are visible. Warning signs include:

• Damp patches or staining on ceilings or walls
• Peeling paint or bubbling wallpaper
• A musty smell
• Warped skirting boards or floors
• An unexplained rise in your water bill
• The meter still moving when all taps are off

To test for a hidden leak, turn off every tap and appliance, read your water meter, and check again after an hour or two. If the reading has changed, a leak exists somewhere. Contact your water supplier or a plumber to locate it. In many areas, suppliers have information about leaks on the supply pipe, but responsibilities differ by property.

When to Call a Plumber

DIY is sensible for washers, cartridges, minor joints and sealant. Call a qualified plumber when:

• Water is leaking near electrical fittings or has reached sockets.
• The leak is on a pressurised heating system or a boiler.
• You see corrosion, bulging or burst pipes.
• You have lead pipes.
• The leak is in a wall, ceiling or under a floor.
• Repeated DIY attempts fail.
• You are unsure about your insurance obligations. Some policies expect professional repairs.

Never attempt gas appliance work yourself. Gas work must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer.

DIY vs Hiring a Tradesperson: Making the Call

Home Maintenance FAQs: What to Check and When

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my tap still dripping after I changed the washer?

The seat inside the tap may be worn or scored, which stops the new washer sealing properly. A reseating tool can sometimes fix this, or you can replace the tap.

Can a dripping tap really waste water?

Yes, a steady drip adds up over days and weeks, especially on metered supplies. Fixing it is inexpensive compared with the waste.

Do I need to turn off the main water to fix a tap?

Not if the tap has its own isolation valve. Otherwise, shut off the main stop valve before you start.

Is it safe to use plumber’s tape on all joints?

PTFE tape suits threaded joints, but compression fittings seal differently. Check the fitting type before adding tape.

Conclusion

Most household drips come down to a worn washer, cartridge or seal, and each is a manageable repair if you isolate the water first and use the right replacement part. Learn where your valves are, keep a few spare washers and O-rings, and act on small leaks early. For anything involving gas, electricity, hidden pipework or a heating system, bring in a qualified professional.